Icon Trend: THINK TANK | ICON TREND | Thoughts about the Meaning of Commercial in the Fashion Industry.

Saint Laurent

Bestsellers don't have to play it safe.

What does commercial actually mean when it comes to fashion? It depends on the context. 'Commercial' is one of those overused words that can be used positive or derogatory.

For example, Slimane's Saint Laurent collection was at its onset responsible solely for a 7% rise in the companies’ profits. Regardless of the price ticket, the garments Slimane is creating are selling and profits have surged 26%, the collection is backed by retailers, who regularly cite the label as a bestseller and this means that Saint Laurent collection IS commercial!

Not all of Slimane's Saint Laurent styles on retail level are trendsetting or controversial and sometimes exhibit just a minimal feeling of the original pure vision created for the catwalks. Does that mean these Saint Laurent items are not worth buying because they are not controversial and wearable? Shouldn't the pure vision be what consumers want to buy from Saint Laurent? Well, this question is the core of the phenomenon. Designers create two collection models. One that is commercial and selling and the other for the catwalk and designed to be fashion-forward, controversial and brand building. These two collections are distinctively different. Consumers may go for something that is barely recognisable as Saint Laurent or select Slimane’s pure catwalk vision. Either way, every style creates the look intended by Slimane as it tells his story.

'Commercial' is mostly used as a synonym for "safe" or "settled" in the fashion industry. I think the word desirable is much better in this context because it describes the sort of desire that means you simply have to purchase something, not considering the price tag. And this is true for commercial styles too. After all, fashion is a business that sells dreams and not reality. Which really means designers are storytellers. They tell brand stories about love and dreams in an industry in which purchases are based not on need, but desire. And this is the case for commercial and luxury fashion.